Somaliland is relatively safer compared to other parts of Somalia. Knowing a little of the local language or having an interpreter can go a long way in gaining information from the local population, which is a valuable tool if you wish learn about the surrounding area.
The Somaliland government requires that all foreigners take armed guards when traveling outside of the major cities. These guards are known as SPUs Special Protection Units and are available from the local police department or the office of tourism in Hargeisa. The UN typically pays $5 a day per SPU, but as a tourist it will be difficult to negotiate this price. SPUs will try to charge you anywhere from $30 to $40 a day, but $15 a day is reasonable for both parties.
Under some circumstances it is possible to travel around Somaliland without an SPU. To do this you will need a letter from the commander of police. This can be obtained from the police HQ in Hargeysa nb not the police station. Take the minibus to 'pepsi' pronounced with a strong 'p' from the centre of town and get off just after you cross the dry river bed, the police station is on the right hand side of the road. The commander leaves at 11am each day so you will need to turn up in the morning and you may have to argue with the guard at the gate to be allowed in, they may try to send you to the SPU building round the corner. Stand firm and insist on seeing the Commander's secretary. The commander's secretary is very helpful and used to sorting this out. Give him the names of every where you wish to go and he will type up the letter and get the commander to sign it. Currently it's easy to get permission to travel to Berbera and Djibouti, other destinations may be harder and the situation may change.
The Republic of Somaliland is not recognized by any government. If you run into legal problems you are on your own, as there are no Consulates to turn to for help. Learning of local customs and laws is very important if you wish minimize the chances of conflict with local authorities.
