You came to see the yakusugi cedar forests. There are three general areas to do this: the trail to and from where the Jomon sugi was, the Shiratani Unsuikyo ç½è°·é²æ°´å³¡ forest, and the trails of Yakusugiland. Because of the dubious reputation of the oldest but deceased tree on the island, the Jomon sugi is the premier destination for most visitors. It can only be reached on foot, and to get there, hikers must be reasonably fit and start before dawn in order to complete the arduous 10 or 12-hour round trip. It is a beautiful and interesting enough hike, but the steep trail to and from Jomon sugi does not go through the most impressive forest on the island. To see the silent, mossy, primeval forest pictured in the tourist brochures, the better destination is the Shiratani Unsuikyo forest, and it doesn't require an early start and hours of tough hiking to get there.
The Shiratani Unsuikyo forest: This can be reached by car up the recently widened road, or by bus from Miyanoura 40 minutes; 530 yen. Admission to the trail is 300 yen, to cover maintenance. A map and suggested routes based on your time constraints are provided at the trail head. There are two main hiking options: a 3 to 4-hour route through an awe-inspiring forest with a half-dozen or so yakusugi and more moss than you can shake a stick at; and a 30-minute there-and-back hike to the magnificent 3000-year-old cedar called Yayoi sugi. The longer route begins with a series of wooden steps and walkways past waterfalls. A loop to the right takes in the Yayoi sugi but it's recommended to leave this until last. Keep going ahead for 15 minutes until you come to a suspension bridge. Don't cross the bridge but walk ahead into the forest proper where the trail climbs past mossy stumps and ancient trees, and drops down to boulder-strewn drinking streams, leading you deep into another silent world. Deer and monkeys graze and feed unafraid. After about two hours of walking with stops to take in the natural marvels of the forest, the trail divides, with an option to turn right to Shiratani hut and Mononoke-hime no Mori, a part of the forest named after Hayao Miyazaki's anime movie Princess Mononoke. You miss nothing by turning left here and heading back via the original Edo-period Kusugawa trail. After an hour's walk, it ends in the trail's old granite steps down to the suspension bridge. Cross the bridge, turn right, take the loop up to the left to Yayoi sugi if you still have the energy, and return down to the trailhead. This hike is not especially arduous, and is arguably the most beautiful on the island.
Yakusugiland: In spite of its theme-park name, this is another natural area for walking in the forest among yakusugi, with a variety of hiking options based on time there are 30, 50, 80 and 150 minute round trip trails. It is less accessible than Shiratani Unsuikyo, being further from the coast with a narrower access road and fewer buses.
NOTE: Due to increasing congestion, during Golden Week and in the summer peak season July-Sep., entrance to the Arakawa trail now requires shuttle bus/taxi tickets purchased the day before at the tourist information centers.
To and from Jomon sugi: The usual way to approach the remains of the giant tree is via the Arakawa trail, a round trip of approximately 10 hours. There is limited parking at the trail head, or it can be reached by a complex series of buses. First, drive, or take a bus or taxi to the Yakusugi Museum Yakusugi Shizenkan Complex. The trip from here to the trail head at Arakawa Tozanguchi bus stop is on two further buses with the change halfway and a combined fare of 1010 yen. The first, easy part of the hike is along the tracks of the railroad used to haul out cedar logs. After about two hours, the trail turns off the rails and from here it's a hard two-hour climb up the well-maintained path, passing Wilson's Stump, the huge hollow remains of a logged tree, and on up to Jomon sugi itself. Many visitors make the hike in a group with a guide. This isn't necessary as the trail is well-marked, but a guide enriches the experience by pointing out and giving you the Japanese-language inside information on the history and landmarks. Food and water must be carried in, but water can be replenished halfway along the railroad and at the drinking streams near the destination. Solid walking shoes or light hiking boots are best, with sneakers possible if you're careful. It rains at least part of most days, so pack an umbrella or plastic rain jacket. Because of the hiking time and time required to get to the trails from the coast, hikers often start out before 5 am. If you have not reached the remains of the Jomon sugi by 1 pm, it may be advisable to turn around or you may by caught on the trail by night fall. An alternative way to Jomon sugi is starting at Shiratani Unsuikyo. This route begins with the hike through the Shiratani Unsuikyo forest see above, taking the right fork to Mononoke-hime-no-Mori, then climbing steeply toward but not to Taikoiwa rock, and going over the Tsujitoge pass before descending to join the Arakawa trail where it turns off the railroad, for a 12-hour round trip.
Longer hikes with overnight stays are available for the adventurous. The hiking trails are among the most pristine and lonely in Japan. The hike to the top of the highest peaks Miyanoura-dake 1867 meters and Nagata-dake 1886 meters and back or across the island is tough, typically requiring two to four days depending on the route you select. There are a few mountain huts along the way, but they are nothing more than empty structures so bring your own bedding and provisions. It will rain.
There are a few white sand beaches with clear water at various places on the coast. If there is no lifeguard, swim with caution. Nagata-no-hama beach has a small reef system nearby so it is possible to see some marine life. At the southern/western end of this beach there are some showers available for use.
Scuba is also available.
Seaside onsen can be enjoyed at Kaichuu onsenï¼æµ·ä¸æ¸©æ³) in Hirauchiï¼å¹³å ), and a few kilometers west at Yudomari onsen below picturesque Yudomari village. Both have 100 yen entrance fees, placed in a trust box. Kaichuu onsen is only available for a few hours before and after low tide. It is also very well-known, and the constant flow of visitors can make it a less-than-relaxing place to bathe. Far better is Yudomari onsen open 24 hours. The tiny main pool has a bamboo screen that offers a modicum of separation between the sexes. But keep walking down the concrete path to the left of this bath and you will come to an even smaller, more private pool. Between soaks, slip down to the sea for a swim among the rocks. Just outside the entrance to Yudomari onsen, a small bar serves cold beer and other drinks and snacks.
