The roads are surprisingly good thanks France. The main roads are all paved and quite wide. You can rent a moped for a day for about $50 USD and drive it around the island in a few hours without fear of death. If you don't know how to ride one, take it slow or you WILL get hurt. Or rent a car expensive, or take a taxi expensive, or Le Truck cheap. There is also a shuttle bus service to and from the ferry terminal that goes around the whole island periodically. Hitching works with the usual caveats and risks.
