Gori

 

Unlike the majority of Georgia, Gori is full of people who still revere their home-town boy who made such an indelible mark on human history. The principal attractions as well as the principal revenue earners within the city are monuments to Stalin and they are all located on or nearby the main square along Stalin Ave.

 

The Stalin Museum is the highlight of a visit to the city of Gori. Behind its faux-Venetian facade is an impressive museum filled with paraphernalia and media documenting the life and careers of I.V. Jughashvili. The museum's portrayal of Stalin is one-sidedly nostalgic, which can be jarring for visitors, but the exhibits are actually quite well done and there are ample Georgian babushkas throughout the museum who will be more than happy to elaborate on the exhibits and answer questions. Unfortunately, the exhibits are overwhelmingly in Russian and Georgian, to the disadvantage of most Western visitors. But the main show requires no language—Stalin's death mask. Stalin's bronze death mask is not so exciting in and of itself, but the lighting and bizarre, personality cult-chic, red velvet display will surely elicit goose bumps. At the ticket office, ask about an English or German-speaking guide. They are sometimes available and will often show you the inside of Stalin's home and train car.

Stalin's Birthplace:

If we are to believe the plaque, Stalin's birth house now resides within a cage of neoclassical Doric columns. There is not much here for the visitor other than a creepy photo opportunity and the plaque which reads in both Russian and Georgian:

Here I.V. Stalin was born on 21

December 1879, and here he

spent his childhood until 1883.

Stalin Statue

Few of the many statues of Stalin throughout the former USSR have survived to this day and Gori's is certainly one of the most magnificent and well-kept. This large statue long stood in front of Gori's city hall, located up Stalin Ave. from the end of the main square, opposite the Stalin Museum, until a bush-league surprise removal in the middle of the night by the current pro-Western government over presumed objections by Gori residents and officials. There are plans, however, to move the deposed statue over to the Stalin museum. There are two other Stalin statues in Gori: a replica of the main statue is in Stalin Park and the second—of Stalin as a young man—can be found beside Gori State University.

gori jvari (gori cross)

The church at Gori Jvari stands on a outcropping of rocks and can be seen from practically anywhere in Gori. Originally built in the 12th century, it was burned down by the Turks, rebuilt, and destroyed again by an earthquake in 1920. The current church was built in the 1980s. On days commemorating St. George November 23 and April 23, Gori residents flock to the church with sacrificial sheep. The sheep are walked around the church three times, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition, are taken just off the church grounds for slaughter. On a clear day, the view of the Caucasus from the church is spectacular.

The moderate hike is approximately three hours round trip. To reach the trail head, walk south along Stalin Avenue until you cross the river. The road will cut to the right and then cross the railroad tracks. On the other side of the tracks, turn right then take the first left and then the windy path up the hill that is immediately on your right. This twists up the hill. If you find a graveyard on your left, you are going in the right direction. There are more hiking options along the mountain ridge above Gori Jvari and there a number of ruined churches scattered through the area.

goris tsikhe (gori castle)

Goris Tsikhe stands at the heart of the city atop a large hill and is the only structure in town that could dwarf the Stalin statue. According to locals, Goris Tsikhe's most notable moment in world history occurred in the first century BC, when it was conquered by the Roman General Pompeii. The current ruins are more recent, however, having been built after the Mongol invasion. There is not much to see inside the ruined castle's walls, but there are nice views of the city and the surrounding dark green plains of Shida Kartli. The approach to the ruins was recently repaved and the surrounding area cleaned up, but the site remains free and the only price of admission is the short, steep walk up the path.