BhawaniGuest House in upper bir serves a wide variety of healthy and delicious food but advance order. Emaho Cafe has recently changed hands & no longer offers good food - simple boring "chinese" food is all they now serve - an institution lost. Another possibility is "Friends' Cafe", although their menu promises more variety than they actually can offer, & the owner is always telling westerners how poor she is & asking for help. Try Gang-Chen Cafe on the second floor above the bank. New is the Himalaya cafe, which has some tasty "bif" cow mutton dishes
Joy Restaurant in the nearby town of Palampur serves wide variety of awesome food at reasonable rates.