Matsuyama

Underground Café
Ropeway Street 3-6-6, Okazaki-Sangyo 2nd Bldg
+81 089-998-7710
Food noon-7PM, bar until 4AM
Walk up Ropeway Street towards the castle and turn right at the fourth side street.

One of the best kept secrets among night spots. UC has an open patio draped in the Union Jack, yet has the tastiest Mexican dishes in town. Try the quesadilla or enchilada, but don't bother with the nachos. They also serve a wide variety of highballs ¥525+, exotic beers Sol, Pine, and Red Stripe, pasta and rice dishes ¥420+. Pictures of all dishes are available, and for ¥3000, a party of three can drink as much as they want and get a seven course meal.

Matsuyama is a great place to indulge a sweet tooth. Botchan dango 坊ちゃん団子 headline every sweet shop in town. They're skewered rice dumplings covered in bean paste dyed with green tea, eggs, and azuki beans. This soft, sweet snack was popularized by Sōseki, who had such a weakness for them that he included the treats in Botchan. Another local favorite are the cute little tarts タルト. Originally derived from Nagasaki's Castella cake in the 1600s, the Matsuyama variety replaces jam with azuki bean paste, and rolls up the cake.

For a healthier sweet, mikan みかん citrus fruits come in a multitude of species, including iyokan grapefruit-like and dekopon huge, orange and puckered. Mikan are mainly harvested in the fall and are very cheap, but they're so treasured that they are used as offerings to ancestral spirits.

Dōgo Bakushukan
20-13 Yunomachi, Dōgo
+81 089-945-6866
Â¥1000-2000
Tu-Su 11AM-10PM

One of the only two restaurants privileged with having Dōgo Beer on the menu, Bakushukan is to the right of Dōgo Onsen Honkan and has a warm, semi-German theme.

Goshiki Honten
3-5-4 Sanbanchō
+81 089-933-3838
Â¥1600-5000
11AM-9PM

This restaurant is a fantastic place to experience Ehime cuisine, serving dishes such as taimeshi fish and goshiki soumen 五色そうめん, five-colored noodles dyed using natural ingredients: eggs, green tea, buckwheat flour, plums and shiso. Thin yet strong, these noodles make an excellent base for other regional fare.

Ladky's
5-9 Hanazonochō
+81 089-948-0885
Lunch: ¥1000-2000; Dinner: ¥1500-2500, Course: ¥2900
11AM-2:30PM, 5PM-10PM

There are two locations, but this is the original. Ladky's serves up the best Indian food in town. Spice potency varies with the chef's mood, so choose wisely...or order the pudding to soothe the fire.

Matsuchika Town
5-1-1 Minatomachi
+81 089-933-0857
Â¥300-700
10AM-9PM, closed 3rd W each month
Underground of Shieki

Opened in 1971, this ramen strip is the place to find regional noodle fare at comfortable prices. Try Sapporo Enishiya, Tōkyō Kyouka or Kumamoto Tengaiten. You'll see Matsuyama-ites waiting in lines for something edible, so lunch is a test of patience richly rewarded.

Nikitatsu-an
3-18 Kitamachi, Dōgo
+81 089-924-6617
Lunch ¥1000-4000, dinner ¥3000-5000
Tu-Su 11AM-9:30PM

A romantic and sophisticated Japanese brasserie, and the other of the two restaurants with the honor of serving Dōgo Beer. It's next door to the brewery, in fact.

Peppers
1-1-1 Yanimachi
+81 089-921-2248
Â¥500-650
11AM-9PM

This is a cozy joint for yakisoba and Kansai or Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.