Matsuyama

While having read Sōseki's novels or Shiki's haiku is by no means essential to enjoy most of these sites, it will probably represent the difference between whether you find them evocative pieces of history or just a pleasant collection of Meiji-era buildings.

Born to a lower class branch of the Matsuyama samurai clan, these two brothers became military heroes of Japan. Yoshifuru, the eldest, is credited as the father of the Japanese cavalry, while Saneyuki excelled in naval tactics. Yoshifuru traveled to France to study cavalry techniques in 1887. After serving in the Sino-Japanese War 1894-1895 he established a cavalry division which debuted in the Russo-Japanese War 1904-1905. After holding numerous posts of prestige, he was promoted to General in 1916 and finally retired to become a junior high school principal in Matsuyama. A childhood friend of Shiki, Saneyuki shared his friend's love of the written word, and the two studied literature at Tokyo University. However, at the behest of his brother, Saneyuki embarked on a military career. He was sent to America to study naval tactics, and had on-the-job training during the Spanish-American War 1898. After returning to Japan, he became the foremost strategist of the Russo-Japanese War, leading to a major victory on Tsushima.

Yasakaji

#47. Built in 701, this temple has the first Amida Nyorai deity statue.

Jōruriji

#46. Created in 708, this temple houses one of Gyoki's Yakushinyorai statue, the first of its kind and the guardian of knowledge and art.

Sairinji

#48. Kōbō Daishi 弘法大師 struck the ground with his stick and created a pond here; his 11-headed Kannon also stands here.

Jōdoji

#49. Jōdo was built in the 700s by Emyo Shonin.

Hantaji

#50. Another Yakushinyorai statue is worshipped here.

#51. This is one of the most impressive of the 88 temples in the pilgrimage, housing a variety of statues, haiku stones, and treasures scattered about the grounds. Some of its more interesting aspects are the Deva Hall with its murals of gods, the belfry, and the giant stone statue of Kōbō Daishi — whose head, if you can touch it, will absolve you of making the entire pilgrimage. Founded in 728 and part of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, Ishiteji embodies one of the most moving of Buddhist legends of greed, sorrow, repentance, and reincarnation. Smoke from the incense of pilgrims making their prayers fill the inner sanctum. Ishiteji celebrates the New Year like no other temple in Matsuyama.

Taizanji

#52. An 11-headed Kannon and Shitenno god statues reside here.